Monday, April 26, 2010

Raoul Duffy

Raoul Duffy

Style: Fauvism

Raoul Dufy was born on June 3rd 1877 at Le Havre a region of France. Raoul grew up in a large family of nine children and left school to start work at age 14 in a coffee importing company. In 1895 Raoul started evening classes in art at Le Havre École des Beaux-Arts. He and Othon Friesz, a school friend, studied the works of Eugène Boudin in the museum in Le Havre. Fauvism is French for nothing less than ‘The Wild Beasts’. This not so flattering term was given to the artists of this movement because of their supposed lack of discipline.ne 3, 1877 - March 23, 1953 (19th - 20th century)


"My eyes were made to erase all that is ugly"

In 1900, after a year of military service, he won a scholarship enabling him to attend the École Nationale des Beaux-Arts in Paris, where he was a fellow student of Georges Braque. The impressionist landscapists, such as Claude Monet and Camille Pissarro, influenced him. Introduced to Berthe Weill in 1902, she showed his work in her gallery. Henri Matisse's Luxe, Calme et Volupté, which Dufy saw at the Salon des Indépendants in 1905, was a revelation to the young artist and directed his interest towards Fauvism. Les Fauves (wild beasts) emphasised bright colour and rich bold contours in their work, and Dufy’s painting reflects this approach until about 1909, when contact with the work of Paul Cézanne led him to adopt a somewhat subtler technique. It was not until 1920, after he had flirted briefly with yet another style, c ubism, that Dufy developed his own distinctive approach involving skeletal structures, arranged in a diminished perspective, and the use of light washes of colour put on by swift brush strokes in a manner that came to be known as stenographic.
Dufy also acquired a reputation as an illustrator and an applied artist. He ch anged the face of fashion and fabric design with his work for Paul Poiret. He painted murals for public buildings, and produced a prodigious number of tapestries and ceramic designs. His plates appear in books by Guillaume Apollinaire, Stéphane Mallarmé and André Gide. Raoul who is most famous for his use of cheerful oils and watercolors depict yachting scenes, sparkling views of the French Riviera, chic parties and musical events.


The optimistic and fashionab
ly decorative and illustrative nature of much of his work has meant that his output is less highly critically valued than artists who treat a wider range of soci al concerns.

Dufy is also an illustrator and a commercial artist. He changed the face of local fashion and fabric design with his work for Paul Poiret. He painted murals for public buildings; he also produced a huge number of tapestries and ceramic designs. His plates appear in books by Guillaume Apollinaire, Stéphane Mallarmé, and André Gide. Dufy died at Forcalquier, France, on 23 March 1953, and he was buried near Matisse in the Cimiez Monastery Cemetery in Cimiez, a suburb of the city of Nice.


1920s Claire Chanel

Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel

(19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971)

was a pioneering French fashion designer whose modernist philosophy, menswear-inspired fashions, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her an important figure in 20th-century fashion. She was the founder of the famous fashion brand Chanel . Her extraordinary influence on fashion was such that she was the only person in the field to be named on Time 100: The Most Important People of the Century.

Chanel's spirit sums up the essence of the 1920s.

The Roaring Twenties were all about becoming "someone" - separating yourself from the old and "making life new" . Chanel set the stage for modern fashion by creating a signature style, a brand awar eness, and a social buzz around herself like no one had ever done before.

Chanel saw the needs and desires of women and designed her fashion around what women wanted. Women wanted freedom from the constraints fashion had placed upon them, women want beauty without shackles.

Chanel redesigned the young woman's role within society. making them more beautiful while, at the same time, separating them from the hoards of traditional "nobodies".

Chanels designs lent a previously unknown practicality to women's fashion.

Her elegant and versatile fashions were made from durable fabrics usually reserved for men's work clothes. Chanel stripped fashion of excess material, frilly lace, and the constraints of the past.

Rather than using more fabric, Chanel used beads and embroidery to decorate her clothes.

Chanel's "illusion jewelry": beautiful gemsto ne necklaces and other accessories fleshed out h er "simple modern" look.

The flapper look shaped the face of fashion in the 1920's and will forever be linked primarily the Coco Chanel.

"How many cares one loses when one decides not to be something, but to become someone."

--Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

The House of Chanel would go on to not only redefine women's fashions, they also put out one of the most popular fragrances: Chanel No. 5.

Coco Chanel's fashion design company lives on today under the watchful eyes of style legend Karl Lagerfeld.

Chanel Designs on the

Cover of Vogue


Designs From 1928 Catalog

Chanel remains one of the bastions of women's fashion making great eyewear, perfumes, handbags, and of course haute couture.


The House of Chanel, more commonly known as Chanel, is a Parisian fashion house in France founded by Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel. Chanel is famous for its line of perfumes, clothing and fashion accessories.
The Chanel logo is an overlapping double 'C' -
one facing forward and the other facing backward.
Originally it was not a logo that Coco Chanel came up with. The logo was given to her by the Chateau de Cremat in Nice.
This comes from the name Coco Chanel."Coco" is the nickname frequently used by Chanel founder, Gabrielle Chanel. The logo was not trademarked until during the first openings of Chanel stores.


http://www.1920s-fashion-and-music.com/Coco-Chanel.html

http://www.yournewfragrance.com/Chanel-s/1933.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3uoMKlSqS4&feature=player_embedded#!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coco_Chanel












KODAK develops color film 16 mm.

Kodachrome is the trademarked brand name of a type of color reversal film that was manufactured by Eastman Kodak from 1935 to 2009.[1] Kodachrome was the first successfully mass-marketed color still film using a subtractive method, in contrast to earlier additive "screenplate" methods such as Autochrome and Dufaycolor, and remained the oldest brand of color film.

Kodachrome is appreciated in the archival and professional market because of its color accuracy and dark-storage longevity. Because of these qualities, Kodachrome is used by professional photographers like Steve McCurry and Alex Webb. McCurry used Kodachrome for his well-known 1984 portrait of Sharbat Gula, the "Afghan Girl" for the National Geographic magazine. It was also used by Walton Sound and Film Services Ltd in the UK in 1953 for the only official 16mm film of the coronation of Her Majesty ''Queen Elizabeth'' the Second. Subsequent prints for sale to the public were also produced using Kodachrome.

As digital photography progressively reduced the demand for film in the first decade of the 21st century, Kodachrome sales steadily declined. On June 22, 2009 Eastman Kodak Co. announced the 'end' of Kodachrome production, citing declining demand.Many Kodak and independent laboratories once processed Kodachrome, but only one Kodak certified facility remains: Dwayne's Photo in Parsons, Kansas, where existing film stock will be developed until the end of 2010.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kodachrome

http://creativebleed.com/2009/06/
http://doddcenter.wordpress.com/2009/06/22/kodachrome-no-more/


Jerome Quinert.









HANNAH HOCH







Hannah Hoch was a member of the anarchic and anti-war art Dada Art Movement. Aside from being one of the first women in graphic design, she is also known for being one of the originators of photomontage. Hoch attended the Berlin College or Arts and Crafts and studied glass design and graphic arts. Further, between 1916 and 1926, Höch held down a part-time job in the editorial department of the handiwork division at Ullstein, one of the largest publishing houses in Germany. There she designed fashions, sewing and embroidery patterns, and occasionally penned an article on “domestic arts” topics. She considered this work to be on a par with her fine arts pursuits.

As a member of the Berlin Dada group she was the lone woman and struggled to find acceptance amounts them. Her observations of their hypocritical issues with Gender became rich fodder for her work. She referenced the hypocrisy of the Berlin Dada group and of German Society as a whole in her photomontage, Da-Dandy.

Her most famous piece of art is titled Cut with the Dad Kitchen Knife through the Last Weimar Beer-Belly Cultural Epoch in Germany, pictured below. This piece combines images from newspapers of the time re-created to make a new statement about life and art in the Dada movement. It demonstrates her extraordinary ability to balance many elements in a natural composition, besides being a very early example of a female artist expressing her belief in the power of women. The piece also shows her very Dada biting sarcas that decries ridiculous political personages and controversial policies of the Weimar Republic.




A bisexual, Hoch eroticizes women in many montages but she also poked fun at the way women conformed to men's sexual expectations and to fashion. She gently skewered men, too, by feminizing them: first her fellow Dadaists, in works like ''Da Dandy,'' with its silhouette of a man's head made of pictures clipped from the popular women's illustrated weeklies; then the Nazis, whose pugnacious hero, the boxer Max Schmeling, she deftly parodied in ''The Strong Men,'' its half-male, half-female face plastered across Schmeling's chest.


Like her male colleagues, Höch used the medium of photomontage to comment on the fragmented world of post-WWI Germany. Hers was a less bombastic voice (generally she avoided the addition of type-set slogans) laced with a subtler humor.
Her montages break down what we see and know, and put the fragments back together in a way that makes us question the concepts of identity, culture, and subjectivity.


She flung scale, gravity, continuity, and illusionism around at will. Even her most labor-intensive works manage to look spontaneous and somehow carefree. Even the simplest of her images are built from a complex array of pictorial fragments. Höch loved wild disjunctions of scale, and the juxtaposition of unlikely elements, particularly animals and machines with humans.
And yet, for all their mapcap surface energy, her compositions are for the most part highly unified, their elements anchored by good compositional structure. For the most part, this quality is missing in the male Dadaist montages.

Her montages break down what we see and know, and put the fragments back together in a way that makes us question the concepts of identity, culture, and subjectivity.






http://venetianred.net/2010/01/16/hannah-hoch-the-good-girl-with-big-scissors-part-i/

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/davepalmer/cutandpaste/hoch.htmlhttp://www.artnet.com/magazine_pre2000/features/altstatt/altstatt97-2-13.asp
http://www.nytimes.com/1997/02/28/arts/dada-dearest-an-artist-alone-with-her-calling.html?pagewanted=all
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hannah_H%C3%B6ch

ROXY: 1920's Cocktails


A Cocktail Bar Poster



Le Sourire, Glamour Erotica Magazine, France, 1920
A poster of women at a cocktail bar


A cocktail book from the 1920's


During Prohibition in the United States (1920–1933), when the sale of alcoholic beverages was illegal, cocktails were still consumed illegally in establishments known as speakeasies. The quality of the alcohol available was far lower than was previously used, and bartenders generally put forth less effort in preparing the cocktails.





Posters for cocktail bars were designed to be sleek and modern using paler colours, round san serif fonts and female flappers.










http://www.postersguide.com/posters/le-sourire-glamour-bars-cocktails-alcohol-evening-dress-cigarettes-smoking-magazine-france-1920-4246271.html

http://www.ssplprints.com/lowres/43/main/3/81727.jpg

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cocktail

Post 8: CIEN: Charleston 1920'S

The Charleston



- Follow this link to watch Charleston inspired dancing -

The Charleston dance became popular after appearing along with the song, "The Charleston," by James P. Johnson in the Broadway musical Runnin' Wild in 1923.



Although the origins of the dance are obscure, the dance has been traced back to blacks who lived on an island off the coast of Charleston, South Carolina (which is why the dance is called "Charleston"). The Charleston dance had been performed in black communities since 1903, but did not become internationally popular until the musical debuted in 1923.



The dance uses both swaying arms and the fast movement of the feet. To begin the dance, one first moves the right foot back one step and then kicks backwards with the left foot while the right arm moves forward. Then both feet and arms are replaced to the start position and the right foot kicks forwards while the right arm moves backwards. This is done with a little hop in between steps.



The Charleston dance became extremely popular in the 1920s, especially with Flappers. The flappers had a beautiful style that was easier portrayed in posters, as their long dresses created movement to represent the Charleston.



Designers used beautiful elegant posters that were usually bold with one colour and using simple forms or silhouettes to portray the dancers and their movements.

http://history1900s.about.com/od/1920s/qt/charleston.htm

http://www.allposters.com/-st/Dance-Vintage-Art-Posters_c54831_.htm
http://cache2.asset-cache.net/xc/3094148.jpg?v=1&c=IWSAsset&k=2&d=45B0EB3381F7834DF137C24EF26524AB9E4725F583D5137003AA0CF64F13FC89

POST: 1920'S





The 1920's were rich and diverse in graphic art styles- Art Deco, Bauhaus, Constructivism and the beginnings of International style from Switzerland to name a few. Discuss an aspect of graphic design from this decade.

the roaring twenties, flappers, cocktails invented, the jazz age, charleston, new feminism, prohibition of alcohol 18th ammendment, coco chanel, burberry, jaeger, merz magazine, schwitters, million mark note herbert bayer, edward johnston - railway type, quaker oats, a.m.cassandre, bakelite candlestick telephone, philips 2514 radio and speaker, mussolini becomes prime minister of italy, al jolson appears in the jazz singer first full length talking film, kodak developes colour 16mm film, wall street crash, 'vanity fair', paris exposition internationale des arts decoratifs et industriels modernes in 1925, el lissitsky, futurist poster stamp 1931, binder, clarence underwood, raoul dufy textiles, gunta stolzl, neophone 1929, universal font 1925, futura font 1927, offset magazine, paul renner, gills sans 1928, beginnings of jazz, held, malevich, constructivism, "elementare typographie", great gatsby,turkey abolishes arabic alphabet and adopts roman, mah- jongg craze, tutankhamans tomb opened, black friday crash of wall street, bauhaus movement, abstact expressionism, chanel pallette- biege488/taupe4645/ gray warm/black, celery614/pale pink 691/lavender664/powder blue 650 light green 622, art deco bronze 8960/chrome, steel 8002/and glass, bright colours as spot colours,fonts eagle bold, cheltenham, cheltenham bold, kabel black, kabelbook, kabel heavy, kabel light, monotype broadway, ozwald, parsons, futura, erbar, franklin gothic, news gothic, gill sans, coronet